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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.